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Great News!  You've got a buyer for your home, and the next step is to have it inspected and appraised.  Guess what?  Both the home inspector and the appraiser will be influenced by the CONDITION of your home, and taking care of routine maintenance items now will greatly improve how you fare in the home inspection and appraisal process. 

Your realtor has probably had you address some of these items before listing your home for sale, since--you guessed it--BUYERS are also influenced by the condition of a property.  Even so, in case you've missed a few things, here are some tips to help you.  Don't overlook the importance of items to do on the day of inspection!

BEFORE THE INSPECTION:

EXTERIOR:

1. Make sure all the dirt and landscaping material is away from the siding of the house. There should be 4-6 inches of clearance beneath the siding of the house.
2. Plant growth should be cut back away from the house at least 10-12 inches.
3. Any stored items should be moved as far away from the structure; stored firewood in particular should be moved as far away from the house as is reasonable.
4. Check the siding and trim for any damages and repair as needed.
5. Repair any missing caulking around doors, windows and over nail heads.
6. Make sure all exterior doors and door knobs/deadbolts are operating properly. You may wish to repair any damaged weather stripping.

ROOFING & GUTTERS:

1. Clean all moss and debris off the roof. Use a pressure washer only if absolutely necessary. A broom or blower is preferred.
2. Repair any damaged or missing roofing. Avoid using mastic or caulking as a repair as it is considered a temporary repair only and may be called out by the inspector.
3. Clean out gutters and repair any damages to the gutters such as rust through or sagging.
4. Make sure all downspouts are properly diverted away from the house, either with elbows and splash blocks or drain lies.

GARAGE:

1. Check the garage door opener and adjust it as needed so it properly reverses against pressure.
2. Make sure the garage door itself is operating properly and repair as needed.
3. If the home is newer with a solid core, self-closing door to the interior, make sure the door closes and seals properly by itself, with the weather stripping intact.

KITCHEN, UTILITY, & BATHROOMS:

1. Check for leaks under the sinks and around the faucets, repairing as needed.
2. Look for possible floor damage around toilets and adjacent to tubs and showers. If found, damages may need further evaluation by a contractor.
3. Make sure that all grout and caulking is in good repair. This includes tub and shower surrounds along the floor in front of tubs and showers.
4. Check to be sure all fixtures, fans and appliances are working properly.

INTERIOR & ATTIC:

1. Check interior doors and windows to make sure they are operating properly. This is particularly important for bedroom windows.
2. Make sure smoke detectors are in place and functional.
3. Removed any stored items from the attic space. Check to be sure all fan ducts are properly connected and venting outside the attic space. Repair if not.

ELECTRICAL:

1. Make sure all light switches are functional and any burned out light bulbs replaced.  I can't tell you how many times "possible spent bulb...seek the advice of an electrical contractor" caused unnecessary anxiety.

PLUMBING:

1. Check your water heater for any leaking or damage. If present, repair or replacement may be needed.
2. If missing, install proper rated earthquake strapping to water heater.
3. Make sure the water heater pilot light is on.
4. Repair any plumbing leaks found in the crawl space.

HEATING & COOLING:

1. Inspect your furnace filter and change, or clean, if dirty.
2. Regarding air conditioning, make sure all debris is cleaned away from the exterior compressor.
3. Regarding a gas-fired appliance, which utilizes a pilot light, such as a gas log fireplace or older furnace, make sure the pilot light is on. The pilot light may have been turned off for summer or if the house has been vacant.

CRAWL SPACE:

1. Remove any wood, concrete, form wood and cardboard debris.
2. Remove or replace any damaged, fallen floor insulation.
3. Make sure crawl space is fully covered with plastic. Only use 6 mil black plastic if adding more.
4. Repair or replace crawl space access. Cover if it is decayed or damaged.
5. Reconnect any disconnected heat ducts.
6. Repair any damaged foundation vent screens and make sure all foundation vents are clear. Use only ¼ inch galvanized hardware cloth for repair. Don’t use any louvered type vents.

ON THE DAY OF THE INSPECTION:

1. Make sure all animals are secured.
2. Remove/ unlock any locks on outside gates, which prevent full access to the exterior.
3. Make sure all utilities are on.
4. Be sure there is total and complete access to the following areas:
1. Electrical Pane. (Panel cover will need to be removed)
2. Furnace. (Furnace cover will also need to be removed)
3. Water Heater.
4. Attic Spaces. (Inspector will need to access inside attic space)
5. Crawl Space. (Especially if it is inside a closet full of stored items)
6. All bedrooms and living areas.
7. All exterior surfaces, siding, decks, etc…
5. MAKE SURE THE HOME IS CLEAN AND PRESENTS AS IF YOU ARE GOING TO SELL IT ALL OVER AGAIN!  Appraisers and inspectors are people too.  A tidy house infers that it is also a well-maintained house!

I recently had a question about whether a Seller should convert their 2 car garage into an extra bedroom.   While I frequently have buyers who require a garage as part of their search, and who won't even look at a home without one, I decided to study the actual numbers as part of my formal response.

It's no surprise:  In general, Coweta and Fayette homes with garages sell MUCH faster than other homes in the Newnan and Peachtree City area that do not have garages. So, what were the results of the analysis?

IT'LL MOST LIKELY TAKE MORE TIME TO SELL IT!

You'll want to think about keeping that garage, since the statistics show that you'll probably find it more difficult to sell when you get ready to move on if you convert the space to anything other than a garage. Some price ranges added as much as 200+ days to the average time on market when no garage was available--and the numbers were up across the board. In Coweta County, the average days on market (across all price ranges) of homes WITH garages was 141. The average days on market (across all price ranges) of homes WITHOUT garages was 308.   The time was also up in Fayette County, but on a less pronounced basis:  there, it only added 5 days to the time on market (average) when there wasn't a garage.

IT WON'T SELL FOR AS MUCH (AVERAGE COST DOWN ABOUT $80,000 IN COWETA AND $55,000 IN FAYETTE COUNTY)

Perhaps the most important number?  The average sales price was ALSO affected: The average sales price in Coweta County for homes without garages was $113,440 compared to the average sales price of $193,722 for homes WITH garages.   In Fayette County, the average sales price was $270,448 for homes WITH garages, but only $215,980 for homes without one.

I would consult a realtor to study your specific situation before you move forward with ANY remodeling effort, but particularly if you're thinking of sacrificing the garage.

Good luck to you!